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Sometimes a photo says it all…

This is a Hipmunk post from Jodi Ettenberg of Legal Nomads

I’m nearing the end of my weeks in Morocco, and looking through my photos, it was an incredibly varied time of mountains and desert, delicious food and fun. But of all the photos (and there are many!) one stands out:

I took this after a long and exhausting drive in the pouring rain. I rented a car in Marrakesh and drove toward the Sahara, hoping to make it to M’hamid by the end of the day. The first few hours involved howling winds and lots of water, all as I drove my way up toward Morocco’s highest pass. With sharp switchbacks filled with buses and taxis barreling as fast as they can, it was quite the ride. 

Approaching Tichka Pass, I caught sight of this rainbow in the rearview mirror and pulled the car into the next shoulder I found. Wind whipping my hair, rain on my face, I stood and watched the rainbow brighten and then fade into the distance.

While the desert was fantastic, this is the snapshot that stands out. The rainbow brightened my day earlier this week, but it also reminded me of something that I often forget: oftentimes the journey is as important as the final destination. as

I’ll definitely keep this photo handy as I continue my travels to Turkey!

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The Art of the Deal: Bargaining in Morocco

This is a Hipmunk post from Jodi Ettenberg of Legal Nomads

Given that I’m currently in Morocco and my last post was country (and soup!) related, I wanted to link through to one of most wonderful reads about spending time here, about the art of the deal.

It’s no surprise that bargaining is a way of life in Morocco. The same can be said for many countries in the Levant and throughout Asia and South America. I spent so much time travelling that when I returned to North America in the summer of 2010, I tried to bargain for popsicles in Battery Park City. (Me: “But I’m buying two popsicles – you can’t give me a better price?” Him: “I’m from Bangladesh so I know what you’re doing but you’re in New York. So no. I cannot give you a better price.”)

Bargaining is so prevalent here that people gave me unsolicited advice the moment they found out I was going, much of it very effective. Tell the vendors you’ve been here for weeks. Don’t choose the item you want and ask the price, start with something else and casually then ask for the pricing on your desired piece, almost as an afterthought. Ask around at a bunch of stalls before looping back to the one you want. 

Even the food prices can be negotiated.

But of everything I’ve read, Andrew McCarthy’s recent article on bargaining in Morocco captured the feeling of the country and the chaos of Marrakesh’s souks perfectly, through the eyes of his young son:

“Everything in Morocco is open to negotiation, Sam. When you hear a price, the first thing you say is, “Too much—bezaf—then walk away.”

“But what if I want it?”

Mohamed stops at a stall selling musical instruments and pulls down a thin, square, “storytelling” drum, which is made of goatskin stretched taut over camel bone. He shows Sam how to tap it on both sides to create the beat and continues the lesson.

“When you see something you like, maybe a lamp, you inquire about something else. Then, as you walk out, you ask, ‘And how much is that lamp?’ as though you just noticed it and don’t really care.”

The whole article is worth a read, weaving together history, culture and some fun bargaining tricks in one award-winning story.

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HOW TO: Make your own Moroccan Harira Soup

This is a Hipmunk post from Jodi Ettenberg of Legal Nomads

I’ve already been in Morocco for several weeks and with two more to go, I’ve reached a point of being comfortable in the country but still excited to see more. I’ve become at ease with the chaos – a very different chaos from that of Asia or South America – and have enjoyed the bargaining (with a smile! Always with a smile) and the myriad of foods on offer. 

Yesterday I posted on the colourful, magical Djemaa el-Fna on Legal Nomads, Marrakesh’s main square and the gateway to the old city (Medina). In constant movement, the square changes with the hours and is most busy at night, when food vendors set up to compete with the snake charmers and the ladies imploring you to get henna on your hands and feet. Of all the foods, I’ve enjoyed the fragrant harira soup stands the most.

 
Spice market from the souks in Marrakesh 

In Morocco, harira is traditionally consumed as a break-fast after sundown during the days of Ramadan. A thick tomato-based broth full of flavour, the variations on recipes for harira abound, but most contain the same building blocks: lentils, rice, tomatoes, lamb and fresh herbs and spices. To that foundation, many add thin noodles and flour to thicken the soup, or remove the lamb and make a vegetarian version for a light appetizer.

Simmered with cinnamon and coriander, topped with fresh parsley and served with of a hunk of fresh bread, it makes for a terrific meal regardless of day. And while soups are historically associated with Ramadan – see this great post on the variety of soups that are used around the world - harira remains a staple of Moroccan cuisine regardless of the time of year. 

Recipe for harira soup, from the kind woman at a streetside stall in Marrakesh:

(As a result of her not measuring anything, I’ve done my best to approximate what I watched her do while cooking.)

 1 lb. lamb, cut into small cubes (ground lamb can be used as an alternative)

1 tsp sweet paprika

1 tsp turmeric

2 tsp cumin powder

1 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/2 tsp of Moroccan saffron (“racine moulue” – not the crazy expensive stuff)

1/2 cup each of fresh chopped parsley (flat leaf) and coriander

2 tbsp butter

2 onions, chopped into cubes

1 can of tomatoes (2lb sizes) chopped (note: 5 large ripe tomatoes with skin removed, seeded and chopped into cubes, can be used instead)

1/2 cup of lentils

1 cup of chickpeas (preferably bought dried and soaked overnight. The 1 cup measurement should be the soaked version)

1/4 cup rice

1 tbsp of flour

salt and pepper to taste

Optional for celiacs (people with gluten intolerance): 2 eggs, beaten with a squeeze of lemon juice, to thicken the soup.

Directions:

-Take a large soup pot and add the meat, lentils, spices, butter, onion and fresh herbs and 7 or 8 cups of water and stir over high heat until the pot is brought to a boil. Include the chickpeas if you have soaked them overnight. If you are using canned chickpeas, you’ll add them later.

-Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. If you are using canned chickpeas, add them after the 30 minute simmer is up.

-In a bowl, dissolve the flour in 1 cup of water and then add to the soup pot after it has simmered, stirring frequently. Add your tomatoes now, as well as salt and pepper. 

-Raise the heat again and when your soup is back to a boil, add your rice. Lower heat once more to a simmer for another 30-45 minutes.

-For those with celiac, don’t add the flour and when ready to serve and the soup is at a steady simmer, stir the eggs into the broth slowly, to create nest-like strands of egg that will thicken the soup.  

-Serve with fresh parsley, lemon wedges and a bowl of harissa to season.


Harira in Djemaa el-Fnaa

With the lamb, the soup makes for a perfect warm snack on a fall or winter afternoon. Bon appetit!

-Jodi

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